Monday, September 30, 2013

Clearance For Take Off--Our first trip as retirees in 2013...and a fisherman's wife lament

Due to circumstances we could have not dreamed of or wished on anyone, Chris and I are both retired now.  It’s all about the carpe diem and bucket list fulfillment and, in this vain, we wanted to explore the whole “open-ended” adventure—just take off with our trailer and go wherever we wanted without the constraints of having to go back to work.

The only extra consideration had to do with our beloved 9-year-old tiger-striped calico cat Shoppie who is totally in-door and, like most cats, not real tickled about any change.  We discussed different care methods and the money involved with boarding her made our decision for us.  Shoppie was to become a travelling cat!  We had taken a practice run to the coast for a week in March with mixed results—we had success using the sedative the vet gave us to help with the travelling panic part, but Shoppie stayed hidden most of the week and hardly ate, drank, or used her box.  Hmmm.  We decided to chance it and see how she did on our open-ended foray…and she ended up surprising us—not only adapting but seeming to enjoy all the variety of “kitty television”—Chris’ son Dustin’s term for the view out the window for cats—the trailer had to offer in various settings.

Eastern Oregon Fix, April 2013
(Chicahominy, Mann Lake, Page Springs, Krumbo Lake, Strawberry Mountains)

Well I’d like to say, “Wow, from start to finish, a fantastic trip!” But I’d be lying if I did.  Truth is, I discovered something about myself I’m not all that proud of—actually, it’s not like I just discovered it—it just became evident in a big way as our trip commenced this time:  I’ve become somewhat of an outdoor wimp.  Forget the Mount Hood climb in my 20’s, the back-packing I’ve done and hiking that I love to do.  If the weather sucks, I don’t care how great the fishing is, I’m not having a great time outside.

Okay, first off, a little vacation perspective Preuitt-style:  For me, it’s all about the weather, the peace, the beauty.  I can be anywhere reading a good book or walking, or just sitting and enjoying nature, if the weather isn’t brutal and the bugs are at a minimum; if there’s a boat involved, there are extra points for me because I love being on a boat.  For Chris, it’s all about the fishing—it doesn’t matter what the weather (rain, hail, wind, cold), if the fish are biting, he’s happy.  And, bless his heart, he has tried to share or pass on this passion to me—to the point that he ties on my hook, baits up my hook, makes most of the casts, takes care of and cleans the fish, and enthusiastically cheers me on when I have a fish on (on the plus side for him, he gets one more pole in the water with my fishing license).  There are times when I’ve been charged up (especially when there’s a boat involved), but mostly I want to get back to the quiet, the peace, and the beauty.  Which means, I actually enjoy the times when the fish aren’t biting (uh-oh, did I just hear the thunder and roar of the fishing gods smacking me down for even whispering this?).

So, I can read a book and do other stuff inside if needed—and I’ve done that—but this trip I wanted to make sure Chris got the filming he wanted.  I know how hard it is to try and film activities you’re doing yourself, so I felt compelled to accompany him--regardless of harsh weather--as he did his fishing thing.

Thurs., 4/18/13
We arrived in Chicahominy Thursday night, April 18th and the scene coming in was breath-taking.  The beauty of the lake, a spectacular sunset beginning, and evident walking paths everywhere—I got excited and thought, “Awesome!”  Then the wind picked up.  And then the cold (really cold) started in, and some rain began to fall.  And…of course…after setting up camp, we took off for some fishing!

But not to worry—Chris had devised a new way of fishing that I really took to in the cold and wind:  He got the poles all set up, we filmed a little, then ran back inside the cab of the truck to listen to books on tape while waiting for fish to bite.  Ahhhh, yes!!  Now we’re onto something!  And Chris was excited because he was catching some really nice Rainbow Trout.

Fri., 4/19/13
Chris got us up bright and early to go fishing and I bundled up (burrrrr!)—long underwear, pants, 3 tops plus an overcoat, hat, gloves, 3 pairs of socks—and I was still cold out in the wind (wind chill factor felt like about 10 degrees).  I was leaping into the truck after we did obligatory filming and fishing.  Thank goodness for the warm trailer.  Shoppie had the best plan—rolled up underneath the quilt on top of the bed.  I took a peak at her undercover and she looked at me like, “You better NOT ruin this for me!”

Chris’ buddy Steve Biddinger arrived that day and we visited in our trailer with him that evening before turning in with the plan for some early-morning fishing.

Sat., 4/20/13
Day 3 and it’s cold (really) and windy (really).  All the layering in the world didn’t help with 6 hours of fishing (6 a.m. to noon).  I had an excuse to make a trip back to camp and took my time—ran the heater full blast in the truck, then kinda lingered before heading back.  It took exactly 20 minutes before I was freezing again.

Okay, so at this point, I can detect all the fisherman types exclaiming, “Wow!  Worth all of that wind and cold—the fishing must’ve been great, huh?!!?  Talk about that, would you?”  I will.  Chris was catching some nice big trout (18” or so)—we ate some (yum!) and he did some excited catching and releasing along with those he kept.  His buddies Steve (Biddinger) and Steve (Fossholm—he and his wife Lori arrived Saturday) went out and had at them as well.

So here’s the thing I’ve learned about fishing people.  You’re probably wondering (as I do myself sometimes) why I even go along on these fishing trips.  It’s simple.   Most fishing people seem to seek out the best of places for reflection—the beautiful, peaceful and quiet spots.  They also seem to have figured out the aspect of life that many religious groups have been striving to achieve for centuries:  living in the moment—a kind of zen-like oneness with nature if you will.  It’s about what’s at the end of the line—the mystery, the surprise, the anticipation.  As meditators around the world strive to empty their minds of everything and focus on breathing in and breathing out, fishermen are already empty-headed (evidenced by the o-dark-thirty windy, cold attraction “thang”) and focused on catching and not catching fish.  Some of the most crazed of fishing peeps (Chris included) aren’t catching to eat the fish—Steve Fossholm doesn’t even like seafood!—No, no.  It’s worth getting up at crack-o’-dawn o-dark-thirty, and freezing in wind-chill 10 degree weather in order to catch fish to let them go…or keep them to maybe eat (or maybe not). I have failed to achieve that oneness as I still think “Okay, I’m pretty sure there’s a fish at the end of that line.”  Period.  The zen thing gets kind of muddied for me when I can’t feel my toes.  But if I want the perfect place to relax and enjoy the surroundings, I’ll keep coming along because I sure would hate to miss the good days.

And there were lots of those good weather days ahead, but I would not have known this by Day 5.  By Day 5 of the wind and the cold, I was ready to go into hair-styling or something—anything indoors—and those of you who really know me, know what a desperate time that was for me!  I had pretty much decided that cold and wind could easily be used as a torture device; any of my classified secrets would all have been shared by Day 5.

Luckily, the trailer was warm and the food was great.  We also had some fun shared times with the Steves and Lori, and eventually their buddy Dylan as well on the trailer (watching movies, laughing).

Sun., 4/21/13
Today Chris suggested I take a break from filming duties and relax on the trailer while he and the Steves battled the early cold to fish—yay!!  I burrowed under the covers with Shoppie (I really do think this cat has the right idea), read my book, and got dressed.  I saw Lori walking about and invited her in—we had a nice time, ate a little breakfast and both expressed our gratitude for not having to face the cold out there.  Once the wind died down, we took a walk-about on some of the paths.

The guys got back with not much of a fishing report (Steve F. caught one) and Chris and I did some walking around/filming after Chris helped Steve F. get his boat launched. 

Mon., 4/22/13
Chris came up with a side trip idea which was great, even though a flat tire sent us back to Burns for a couple of hours just a couple of miles away from our first destination.  We finally ventured into Yellow Jacket Lake (don’t be scared, it’s just a name) on brand new tires, which was beautiful--listened to books on tape, stopped by Moon Reservoir, then headed back to camp.  Chris was not impressed by the fishing at either spot, but we both enjoyed the drive.

Steve F.’s friend Dylan arrived, and Steve B. decided to head on down to Mann Lake.

We finished up with an evening of fishing and freezing our butts (but we did do the cab-style fishing method which took the edge off of that—whew!).

Tue., 4/23/13
Steve B. had invited us to come join him at Mann Lake and when Chris excitedly asked me about it, my first inclination was to decline and entertain indoor wind-free, chill-free activities (reading, writing, snuggling with Shoppie).  I’d been to Mann Lake when it was not fun (windy, cold) and frankly, to use a little fishing jargon here—I had limited out on the joys of that.  Nope—indoor sounded much better.

But then that nagging pull inside of me won over—what if Chris had the most exciting day ever and I wasn’t there to capture it on film?  Aghghghgh!!!  Off I went.

And my soul was restored for the effort.  It was a picture-perfect day, Steens Mountain was glorious—a filming mecca—beautiful!!  Steve and Chris caught some nice cutthroat trout and I got some great stuff on film (pelicans in flight, egrets, muskrats, etc.).  Not to mention, my legs and hands warmed up to normal outdoors—what a treat!

Renewed and happy with the turn in the weather, we returned back to camp and the evening fishing wasn’t torture for me—yay!!—it was actually pretty pleasant out there (no truck cab needed, thank you).

Wed., 4/24/13
Another beautiful day in store, and I got to hang with Lori—she and I did mellow nice-day stuff (chatted, walked around, read books) while Steve F. and Chris drove around scouting for elk.  When they got back I asked if they had seen any—nope.  “But,” Steve said, “I heard one—really close to where Chris was at—a great bugling!”  It turned out to be Chris—that guy!  Mr. Dances with Crows strikes again (his “animal talk” knows no bounds).

Chris and I did an evening at the ol’ “D” fishing spot again on the Chicahominy—were even able to sit out in our chairs—it was beautiful!  I’m thinking, “Wow, I could do this forever…”  But guess what happened?  The fish stopped biting.  Guess what that means?  Time to move on.  We had a nice last evening and prepared for leaving the next day.

Thurs., 4/25/13
We packed up and headed to Page Springs campground in Malheur (one of our favorite spots) for a change of fishing—uh—scenery!

First we had to tend to chores in Burns—doing laundry at the “Jiffy Wash”—quite the catchy little spot (dumpy little place on an unmarked corner—you have to ASK to find it), dumping the holding tanks, loading up with water, gas, and filling up the propane tanks…we also hit the library so that we could catch up on email and Facebook Scrabble games.  Then off we went.

Another gorgeous day—and Page Springs wasn’t crowded at all!  In fact, the best spot in the house as far as we are concerned (corner lot, secluded) was all ours.

Shoppie had traveled drug-free and took right to the new spot—she’s a bona fide camping cat now—woo-hoo!

Fri., 4/26/13
Malheur refuge has always been a favorite of mine.  There’s nothing more enjoyable than scouting along “Patrol Road”—a 10-mile dirt road through the refuge full of wildlife viewing—in the early morning and early evening when critters seem to be most active.  We did both runs today and enjoyed another glorious day.  We saw lots of antelope, 2 otters that we just missed on film (dang!), pheasant, deer, ducks, egrets, cranes, and some long-billed birds that stopped us several times.  It’s fun to be driving along and suddenly one of us gasps—oh!  And the brakes slam on, cameras come out, excitement ensues.  Great fun.

We hiked up into the hills looking for Indian artifacts and ended up running into a different kind of artifact spot—some kind of mining camp with old bottles and jars (one was an old Listerine bottle from about 60 years ago—kinda cool).  When we got back to camp, we interviewed our neighbors, Steve and Sharon, who had a really interesting military-looking rig that they used to camp in.  Turns out they bought it from a Dutch couple and had quite the adventure (went to the arctic circle, South America and all over the place—lots of stories to tell).  Fascinating!

Beautiful water spots have a way of attracting the mosquitos which definitely come out in full force in the evenings.  I got to test out the Listerine bug repellant theory that my Dad and others had suggested—worked really well but got rather sticky.  I became slayer-of-the-winged beasts in the trailer—hey, so call me territorial!  And poor Shoppie thought I was somehow scolding her every time I slapped my hands together to mutilate one of the pests but over time she got used to it—“Oh, just Mom being weird again.”  And on one occasion she actually double-teamed with me—swatted one down on the table and I finished her off (Chris was quick to remind me that the biting ones are the females—I had other female-like names for them as I avenged their intrusions into our trailer).

A word about Mr. Preuitt and bugs.  He is NOT affected whatsoever—like his Mom, they have tough skin that I guess protects from all kinds of atrocities that seem to find their way to me and make my life miserable.  Chris can leap into a wad of Poison Oak and not even itch; mosquitos hover around but don’t bite him.  I’ll be slapping away and miserable and he’s simply flicking fingers to get them out of his vision or to keep their wings from tickling.  I’m not the only who has witnessed this.  Just ask Steve B. about Big (he calls it—with no apparent affection—“Bug”) Lake in Alaska.  Chris came back unscathed; Steve welted up and sprayed up from then on.  I’m not fond of Deet and poisoning myself which is why the Listerine attracted me…it allows me to be “like Chris”—they hover but don’t bite (except for the parts I didn’t get sprayed/doused—dang!).  Chris doesn’t understand quite what all the fuss is about and just looks at me with disbelief as I slap, smack, and flail about ridding myself of those pests.

The Listerine allowed me to be somewhat composed outside, but I was relieved to be back on the trailer during evening “feeding times”.  We supped well (as always), played with the cat, and watched a movie…toughing it out as usual!

Sat., 4/27/13
Today’s opening day at Krumbo Reservoir—one of Chris’ big goals—and we headed out at o-dark-thirty (well, 5:30) and ended up LATE—people were out on the lake in their boats already and the parking lot was packed—so we got set up quickly on the bank (tried higher up at first but clambering down and up the rocks was a bit much) and wow—never better fishing—bang! Bang! Bang!  Chris was thrilled and it was a busy, busy time—great opening day—never had time to drink our coffee—caught 15 fish, kept 4 and Chris (yes, Chris) was DONE after 2 ½ hours.  Double WOW.

We then had time to kill and Chris once again had eyes for the weird and made us a fun couple of hours in the desert crafting some art-in-nature rock gargoyles.  Gotta love that guy!!  He busied about gathering rocks (for eyes and teeth), sage and shrub for eybrows, etc., to enhance some already oddly-shaped rocks into his “masterpieces”.  We filmed them out, naturally, and I realized another reason why I married this man—he’s nuts!  I love it!

We listened to our book and napped back at camp before hitting Patrol Road once again.  Amazing weather again—verrrrrry relaxing.

Chris decided we should do some “interviewing” in our camp chairs, so I took the on-camera opportunity to show how one lathers up with Listerine.  Chris’ eyes about rolled out of their sockets from eye-rolling.  Poor guy—what he has to put up with—hah!!

Sun., 4/28/13
Of course, after the success on opening day (yesterday), Krumbo was calling Mr. Preuitt for more fishing—as it turned out, it was not so hot and Chris then lost his pole.  The fish swam off with it and then began jumping out a way’s from us—Chris cast out and was at least able to catch and free the fish, but alas, his pole didn’t make it back.

We took our time getting back to base and then took off on a nature trail up through some really pretty forest, then into the sage brush.  On top, it looked like there was another trail heading back, so we started on it, only to realize it was a cattle trail…

At the top of the ridge, we could see the Steens Loop Road, so we headed across the windy “savannah” of sage brush to take the road back to camp.  Well, that was the plan and that’s the one I stuck to.  Chris had other “short cut” ideas and I had been on enough of his “short cuts” to opt out of it.  He ended up on top of the cliffs overlooking our camp site—and I could see him up there when I got back to base.  He scared the poop out of me because it looked like he was going to scale down the cliff, but I guess he was just hamming it up for the camera.  Oh well—I was pretty miffed with him for that, but I got over it.  And he was thrilled—got his adventure of the day in.

Had some more good eats for supper and turned in kinda early with a comedy DVD—and were pretty sure we’d be packing up to go to our next destination (the mountains) in the morning.

Mon., 4/29/13
With morning came a turn in the weather and we opted to stay another day and relax—to see what the weather brought.  We talked of playing Scrabble and such as we made our lazy way through the morning Patrol run after breakfast. 

By the time we got back to camp, I was entertaining notions of book-reading, writing, and taking a shower.  That’s how I relax.  Here’s how Chris relaxes:  about 2 minutes after we got back to base, he announced, “You know, I’m thinking of doing something really stupid.”  Uh-oh.  “Yes, I believe I’m going to go fish for my lost fishing pole.”  So off he went. 

I stayed with Shoppie, took care of some cleaning chores (around the trailer and for me), read, filmed a little, wrote, drank tea, sat and enjoyed the weather.  And…with the slightly chillier & breezier weather, I could actually sit outside bug-free—wee-hawww!!

Chris had himself an adventure and a rip-snorting time fishing.  He had Krumbo to himself and the fishing was absolutely hot—he’s pretty sure he had that 24”-er hooked but it snapped his line—he had the time of his life.  He also had quite the story on the fishing pole—he caught a fish and as he was reeling it in saw another line attached—could it be his fishing rod?  Then a flasher and some other gear appeared—he pulled in someone ELSE’s other line…!!  On the way back, he stopped at another junk pile and brought back 2 more old jars.  Only sour note—the refrigerator appeared to be having issues and we thought we might have to change our plans.  So goes RVing sometimes…things can come up unexpectedly like that.

Tue., 4/30/13
Our 14th wedding anniversary today (18th year of being together) and my 53rd birthday.  We celebrated in the usual way—hugged each other.  We agreed that my present to him would be to film him catching the 24-incher and his to me to play some Scrabble or Cribbage.

But then we got into messing with the frig again—hoping to figure out a way to make it work.  It may mean going to Bend (where there are RV places) and figuring out something from there once it’s fixed.  Wait—a “reboot” (off/on) and it appears to be working—yay!

We had breakfast and off to original plans—off to fish (Chris) and film (me)—of course!!

How do I love thee?  Let me count thy ways.  For starters, it was 28 degrees in Burns at about 7:00 a.m., so about that at camp (though we were plenty warm while on the trailer!).  I’m wearing the usual 3 pairs of socks, 3 shirts with coat over, long johns & jeans on the legs.  We got to the fishing spot and Chris had caught a fish by 9:00 a.m.  He wanted to film us arriving at the spot, so I went ahead with the camera, down the rocks, set up the camera, hit record, clambered back up with my armload of stuff, then we went down as though we had professionals filming us…thus it goes for amateurs on a fixed income.  I have a book to read, coffee to drink, and Chris even brought in a chair for me since it’s my birthday—no sitting on cold rocks this morning—yay!!

With no wind and the sun out, it’s really not bad and it’s an absolutely gorgeous day—nice, quiet, peaceful here (and no bugs so far—weee!).  Chris is predicting we’ll be sorry we have our long johns on later in the day.  I beg to differ, but we’ll see.  I don’t mean to work against the guy, but when the fishing’s not so great, I do get more relaxed reading time.  Just sayin’.  So when he says, “Well, it’s not looking too good right now,”—this from a man who estimates that he’s caught about 30 good-sized (over 16”) trout out of Krumbo so far—I’m enjoying the peace.  Right now, no bites…sunshine sparkling on the water, sun’s out, geese and other birds are making their sounds (some are songs, others are squawks).

I mellowed right out and the fishing was good too—we were both happy (Happy Anniversary!)—Chris caught about a dozen good ones, then landed one over 20 inches after it crossed his line and picked up some OTHER gear once again (a new-found talent of his).  At 11:00, we decided we’d “hang” a little longer.  Sun shining, a beautiful day, great book, can’t complain!

Chris wanted to move to the dock where a buddy’s father had fished for 20 years—he caught a fish there for his memory.  Then upon reeling up his last line, the 2-footer he was after followed his line all the way up to the dock!  This just made him laugh—a good cap on the day.

We ran the Patrol road (slow way back) and saw the group of 10 deer we’ve been spotting but no otters (we kept hoping to see them again).  Gassed up in Frenchglen, then snacked, played Scrabble, called my Mom & Dad, then sister Kris, ate dinner, watched Jeopardy/Wheel of Fortune, played more Scrabble, watched more stuff, and played with Shoppie.  All in all, a perfect day.  Oh yeah…and I won the last 2 Scrabble games—woo-hoo!!

Wed., 5/1/13
Another beautiful day but we’ve decided to head over the mountains for a spell before heading home.  Had an incident with shifting as Chris was cranking down the trailer and poor Shoppie thought we were having an earthquake—I found her hiding in the bathtub with huge black eyes, looking at me as if to say, “The world as we know it is over!”  I put her in the carrier and up in the truck cab and she seemed to calm down quite a bit.

On to Burns to gas up and dump, then on up north (395) south of Seneca to the Silvies River—took a break at a campsite to practice with Shoppie (for longer journeys, she’s going to need to “take breaks”)—played Cribbage and she ran around the trailer. 

Found a glorious camp spot right on the Silvies and then took a walk—saw a deer cross the river, ducks, geese—but no turkeys (Chris has a turkey tag in case).  No fish are biting either but it was still a beautiful spot.  Having ribs for dinner (zucchinis, onion, potato mix, and salad)—yum!  Entertaining ourselves with DVD’s tonight—no Satellite—we’ll have to survive somehow.  J

Thur., 5/2/13
Something to make us all feel better about aging:  Think of all the activities you would miss out on in life if you never lost or misplaced things.  Rather than dwell on what’s being forgotten, think of how finely tuned our synapses are becoming as we wrack our brains to figure out the where’s and the when’s—and then the physical fitness as we retrace our steps!

I’m pondering these things today because we seemed to have hit the Twilight Zone vortex with bad “sunglass karma” events.  If we had been paying attention, we would have realized that yesterday had provided some foreshadowing when I backed up and crunched a pair of my sunglasses on the trailer during our Burns gas-up stop.  A dreaded sound—Crunch!—but not to worry!  I wasn’t a Girl Scout in my day for nothing!  I was prepared—I had my handy-dandy 2nd pair—a fine polarized special hiking pair that I had come to love on this trip.

So, imagine my Girl-Scout-preparedness smugness as Chris dealt with his own sunglass karma later in the day.  He managed to lose his sunglasses on the hike we took once we set up camp, and we had to backtrack until we found them—whew!  Okay.  Then we were back at camp and he once again didn’t have his beloved pair of sunglasses—wow!!  We looked everywhere—must’ve been on the hike—too late to go looking for them now—he had to squint and I felt sorry for him but also felt that bit of smugness by the fact that I had MY pair.  Chris did manage to find a cheapo not-so-hot backup pair so he made do, but we decided to look for his main pair the following day… 

And that brings us to today.  Okay.  Cold morning—so cold, our wet socks had frozen solid on the bushes where we’d put them to dry (why were they wet?—Preuitt short-cut through the creek yesterday, naturally).  After breakfast, we prepared to take that walk to find his sunglasses. 

While gathering my stuff together to hike, I went to get MY sunglasses in their usual spot by the couch—not there.  No problem, I probably just stuck them in my purse—my other usual spot.  Not there either.  Okay, they’ve GOT to be here somewhere—dropped?  Nope.  Under the couch?  Nope.  By the river where we sat last night?  Nope.  Hmmmm---now the hunt was on in camp.  Finally, we gave up on my missing sunglasses and decided to go ahead and look for Chris’ lost pair—that way, at least we’d have 1 pair each. 

We were not holding our breath on the success of this venture but off we went nonetheless.  Halfway to our turn-around spot from yesterday—Voila!—found ‘em right there on the path!!  Okay!  Now all that’s left is the trailer/camp hunt for my pair.

We exhausted all places that we could think of—even searched the garbage—nope!  Finally—as I was looking around the bed, I noticed that Chris’ side had extra space between the mattress and dresser that my side didn’t.  Upon pushing the mattress towards his side to allow for more space on my side, the glasses popped out.  Woo-hoooo! 

All the excitement and happiness was ours to be had after that—we were full of ecstatic cheering over wasted hours of looking and hair-pulling—amazing huh?  And it gave us such a sense of accomplishment which, if we really examined it closer, we’d have realized that there was no great progress because we were at the same point we were before the loss.  Oh well.  We’re adults.  We can take this.  Onward we go.

We broke camp and made our way to Detroit Lake for our final night.  We had a fun drive (book-on-tape company, of course), and Chris spotted an odd exchange between a farmer on a tractor and a crow—it appeared to him that they were playing a game they played often, like they were “buds”—the crow swooped down like he wanted to take the farmer’s hat off and the farmer swatted and laughed at him—they did this ritual as if they did it often.

Detroit Lake was packed—not the serenity that we had been used to, but we made the most of it.  With full hookups, you relax a little more (no generator needed, water abundant), so we hooked up, and went to the dock to fish (of course!) and reflect on the trip.

We agreed that we were ready to return home the next day, but it had been a really great trip.  Chris likes to point out that you take pleasures in the small things (must be that fisherman zen-like thing), and I have to agree there.  We came back to mounds of mail and email and Facebook posts and it makes you realize how subtly complicated life is on a daily basis—stuff we all take for granted anymore.  If it takes “empty-headedness” to feel this relaxed and recharged after being so disconnected, then so be it.

Preparing for the next Take-Off, Captain!


Houston, We Have a Problem... A 2010 hellacious trip, hilarious in hindsight

Let me just explain first off, I don't enjoy flying to begin with anymore.  Besides the common complaints I share with everyone else--too cramped, too much hassle with security, none of the fun freebies like before--I have a severe ear pain (we're talking cry-like-a-baby-ear-is-going-to-burst pain) during just about every landing.  I do all of the "things"--take a decongestant before the flight, sip water, chew gum--but there are times, about 50% of the time, when none of these attempts at a "cure" make a difference.  So, to begin with, I look forward to airline travel with the same enthusiasm and gusto that I would look forward to say, another root canal.

But sometimes other things overpower and prevail--like the opportunity to see my family on Labor Day 2010.  My Mom generously offered up some of her inheritance money to bring us all together--including my son and his family with 3 adorable granddaughters, my sister and her family, including my 2 nephews and their significant others.

So, once again, I was talking myself into a little root canal to get across country--"Maybe this flight won't be so bad"--and I set about the business of booking.

Not wanting to take inconsiderate advantage of the fact that this was paid for, I looked for cheaper fares and found a dandy one price-wise.  Schedule-wise, it was not thrilling; a red-eye flight out of Portland to Houston, and a 3-hour layover in Charlotte.  Time difference included, it was a 17-hour traveling experience from leaving Salem, Oregon on the HUT airport shuttle to Portland at 7:15 p.m. Wednesday, after a full day of work, to arriving in New Bern North Carolina Thursday afternoon, 3:30 p.m.

Sounds bad, right?  But ya know what?  When the excitement of seeing people you love takes hold, a fair amount of amnesia kicks in.  "Red-eye flight…no problem!  I can sleep on the plane!"

Everything in Portland went fairly smoothly and I was beginning to feel kind of smug about my economic and efficient choices.  Proudly, I sailed through Security with my 1 carry-on (no checked bags, thank you very much!) without as much as a finger-wagging "Tsk-tsk-tsk" that TSA is so famous for.  I know how to bag my liquids, by God!  I ate snacks that I brought with me and read my book.  Saving money feels good--feels so virtuous!

Since I was done with security (savor these words because they come back up like indigestion later), I took some time to reorganize and repack some of my things.  I filled my water bottle (for the ear pain thing) and boarded up.

Oh...did I mention the fact that Hurricane Earl was heading right for my parents' town where we were all planning to come together?  This added a little bit of excitement to the mix as I wasn't sure if my parents would have to evacuate and meet us all in Charlotte for the "shindig" or if I was to continue on into New Bern as planned.  We all had to just "wait and see."
Gee, I like an adventure!

The plane-sleeping thing didn't work out so well.  For some reason, this time, it wasn't just the landing phase that got my ears--it was pretty much the entire trip.  I had pain so bad at times, I seriously wanted to cry and thought I was crying until I realized it was the screaming baby behind me--bet it was the ears for him too, poor little guy.  So much for sleep.

So, I wasn't real rested to begin with when I landed in Houston (5 a.m. local time) to look for my connecting flight.  But not to worry, they had a "helper" at the gate to direct us.  She took one look at my paperwork and said, "I can't tell what airline you're on from this--do you have something else?"  Well, yes I did.  And that something else was at the bottom of my carefully repacked carry-on.  I opened it up on the floor, quickly rifled through all of my things--some of them spilling out, much to the delight of other weary travelers waiting to get their marching orders from our helper, who was, by now, starting to smile less and clear her throat.  Got it!  "Okay," now frowning, looking stern, she instructed, "You'll need to go all the way to the intersection, turn left, and get on the train to Concourse A."  I had an hour to get to my next flight.  No problem.

Were those Munchkins I heard giggling in the background?  Boy, I must be tired...

I went ahead and filled my water bottle in case I was in for a long walk and started for the "intersection."  I turned left at what felt like an intersection and began walking.  No signs for a "train".  I felt the need to get more help, more clarity. So I went off to the side where a gentleman in uniform stood next to an escalator going down.  "Am I going in the right direction to get to the train that takes me to Concourse A?"

Pause.  "Uhhh...well."  Another pause.  "I don't know...the only train I know about is down there (pointing down the escalator) but then you'll be out of security..."

Wow.  Okay...not sure what that meant.  So I grabbed the first flight attendant passing by and asked her if she knew where the train to Concourse A was..."Oh yeah!" she said smiling brilliantly.  "Just head over towards that flashing blue light way down there (pointing in another direction, away from where he had pointed)."

At this point, an argument ensued between uniformed Uhh-guy and the flight attendant (who was no longer smiling).  I watched this volley for a few minutes, then dared to interrupt, "Excuse me, maybe there's an information booth somewhere?"  And she said, rather snippy at this point, "Oh, that's way back that way (behind me) and it's closed."  I shared my anxiety over the time and not knowing which way to go and she said, "Well yeah...you're losing time here and you just need to make a decision, ma'am!  And I guess I'd listen to him (she gestured angrily at the Uhh-guy) because I don't do A!!!"  At this, she stomped off.

I looked at Uhh-guy and said, "Well, I wish you were sure about this," to which he said, "Oh I'm sure!"

Uhh-guy becomes Duh-guy...

By some miracle, I found the train and got on.  And by some other divine intervention, I found Concourse A--lots of stops and lack of signage ("Let's see...the map shows a hotel before A and this looks like a hotel, so I'm going to stay on the train...").

I got off the train...to no signs for anything.  "You look lost," one of the security guys standing there says.  I said, "U.S. Airways?" and was promptly entertained by another "This way/no that way" volley by the security guys.  They all agreed that I should go up first, so I did.  I had just 30 minutes to get to my connecting flight.

Okay, a little ya-get-what-ya-pay-for lesson here.  Evidently, part of the cheap deal of this flight was the fact that part of it was on Continental and the other part was on U.S. Airways.  This meant that even though I had already bought my ticket and gotten in line at Portland to check in and through another line through security, I got to go through another line in Houston to check in and go through security...again!!!!

The check-in line was long, but I got my boarding passes and was in the security line with 15 minutes to spare.  I bagged up my liquids as I had in Portland and proceeded through.  And then I heard that question that makes every traveler’s heart go pitter-pat:  "Is this your bag here, ma'am?" spoken with splendid TSA disdain.  "Why yes, it is."  "Okay..." and she did the eye-roll thing and started in with her I-can't-believe-I-gotta-educate-another-idiot-about-this speech:  "Are you aware that liquids can not be in different bags?!!  You're gonna have to fit all your liquids into one quart-sized bag and throw everything else away."

Stunned, I asked, "How come this got through without any problems just earlier today in Portland?"  To which she became haughty.  "I don't know what those guys in Portland are doing but here in Houston this is the rule."  Big eyes were daring me to challenge the rule and the intelligence of these guys versus "those guys".  I had always thought that Portland Oregon and Houston Texas were 2 different worlds...and now that had been confirmed.

To her credit, she stopped and took time out of her precious day to help me cram as many liquids as I could into one bag.  Then, as luck would have it, I heard another one aimed in my direction, "Ma'am--is this your bag as well?!!"  My purse.  The water bottle.  Dang!  "Can we just empty it out?  I have this ear problem..."  She wanted nothing of my explanation...  "This'll need to be thrown away.  Oh, you can empty it alright, but you'll need to do that over there and then come through security again!"

Not on your ruby-slippered life, My Pretty!

Down to 5 minutes.  Had to buy another water bottle and make my way to the gate.  Ah...just started boarding.  Made it!  They were up to Zone 2...I was Zone 4...

Zone 4 was up and so was I.  And now for the announcement:  "We just got word that we have no more overhead compartment space.  Those of you with overhead carry on need to get in this other line so we can check your bag onto its final destination.

Okay...problem!  I'm not sure of my final destination because of the hurricane...  It took a few more conversations, volleys, and time, but my bag finally got a colorful little "special tag" to accompany me on the same plane.

I was pretty much blotto by the time I reached Charlotte.  The news was pretty grim on the hurricane "front" so I went out to the baggage claim area, thinking I'd be calling to get picked up by one of my family there--I just assumed the "Do" was moved to Charlotte.  After a couple of phone calls, I realized it had not moved and I would need to get on the plane to New Bern if it was actually going to take off.

So...you guessed it--back through security!  This time, I emptied my water bottle and made sure everything would pass inspection.  Smiling wanly, which was all I could do 3 times through security in one day, I made my way through their contraption, which requires you to stick your thumbs on your head and get your picture taken.  Come on--really?  They're making little TSA movies they can laugh at on breaks, right?

I overheard one of the TSA gents comment several times, “Upper buttocks area...yeah somewhere in the upper buttocks area..." and I'm thinking, "Wow, what silly conversations these TSA guys have while waiting for people to come through."

"Ma'am?"  "Ma'am?"  I came out of my sleepless stupor to realize she was addressing me.  "I'm going to need to pat you down.  Something came up on your picture we need to check."  OMG!  I was "buttocks" babe TSA guy was referring to!!  She asked, "Would you like somewhere private while we do this?"  Oh hell no...I want everybody to see this!

I'm sure everyone is thrilled to know that my butt passed the pat-down and I went on to enjoy a hurricane-free couple of days with my family.  At Charlotte, I said, "You know, I've been through 3 airport security checks today and all of them have been different."  "Oh that's funny!" said this particularly jolly TSA gal--"They're all supposed to be the same!"  Ha-ha-ha.


So I decided to cop her attitude and laugh, laugh, laugh.  I haven't stopped yet.  Visiting hours are...

The 2007 Alaska POW Tour--When "Deliverance" Meets "Hee-Haw"!

So Chris and I venture forth with the following in mind:  maybe retiring somewhere in SE Alaska, with some kind of semi-retirement small business perhaps--or even just having a piece of property there…possibly vacationing every summer there…all of this appealed to us and why not just do a week on POW—where we have already had 2 wonderful vacations—and research all of the possibilities?  Any answers would be answers nonetheless, right?

Little did we know that some of those answers were really going to surprise us, and we would gather enough fodder in the process to script a movie entitled "When Deliverance Meets Hee-Haw"!


Wed. 5/23/07—Day 1

Getting to POW went pretty much as planned/expected—staying at Ramada Inn at Portland (PDX) Airport Tuesday (5/22) night, flying out of PDX early, changing planes in Seattle, flying into Ketchikan, ferrying over from airport to Ketchikan proper, taking the POW ferry to POW, picking up our rental car at the Hollis ferry terminal, getting to the B&B in Craig—and took us from early a.m., getting up around 4:00 a.m. at the Ramada to get our stuff ready and through security to catch our 6:00 a.m. flight, to later p.m., arriving at our B&B around 9:00 p.m. Alaska time (10:00 p.m. Oregon time).  All in all, it was approximately 18 hours. 

There were no real hitches except for the fact that we had to haul our luggage from the Airport ferry terminal in Ketchikan to the POW ferry terminal—only 3 blocks but it was through construction and gravel—where we learned that wheeled bags really don't care for "off-roading" it.  Then we had to wait 3 hours—lots of Cribbage games!--for the ferry we boarded in Ketchikan, and since there is no way to store luggage—no lockers to be found—we once again wheeled our luggage across the street so that we could get a bite to eat before heading back once again to the terminal.  We had one little introduction with an Alaskan native on the ferry who shouted from her car, "Okay, so just announce to the whole f---ing ferry that I'm bed-ridden and knocked up!"  They're a tough sporty bunch alright.

Arriving at the B&B was a welcome treat—and Chris gets extra points for finding/landing us this one!  Although the landmarks were questionable and had us worried—the run-down Shaan Seet Trailer Court, the gravel pit, the dump—the B&B turned out to be sweet.  Run by a really nice couple in Craig—Christina Barlow is a high school English teacher and her husband Gary is with the forest service—the Overlook Inn provided us with everything we could possibly have wanted, and more—all new appliances, great view, very clean surroundings, and breakfast was on our own with food delivered to our door!  We also were shown through the place by their darling young daughter, Alecia, who pointed out all of the amenities, opening cupboards and expounding on contents, including the jigsaw puzzle stored in the futon "cubbie".  It didn't take us long to decide to stay there for the entire week while we scouted the island.

Thur. 5/24/07—Day 2

We awoke with enthusiasm to get going with our research…

Gary had recommended that we take a swing around Port St. Nicholas, which is the road our B&B was on, so we started there with our first real look at POW real estate.  We were impressed with the view of the bay that these places looked out at, but were equally impressed by the vast contrasts right next door to each other—that would be like "pretty" and "ugly", or more like "awesome beauty" and "trash heap of rusty appliances and vehicles"—our first introduction to what we eventually termed "our POW usual"; it was disheartening to be so excited by something so beautiful, only to be disappointed one "house" (term loosely used at times), over…

Our first encounter with POW realtors was with Island Realty in Craig.  We entered and were greeted by a sweet-looking woman named Leah Music who asked if she could help, so Chris began explaining that we were interested in properties and real estate on the island.  At this instant, the gentleman who occupied the only office in the joint abruptly got up, smiled at us, and left.  That was Doc, we were to learn.  He was the realtor.  Okayyyyyy.  So maybe customer service wasn't a top priority. 

Leah did her best to educate us but she was having trouble operating the machinery—computer, printer—surrounding her and couldn't get us any printouts to go by.  She finally copied off some hand-written notes that we could follow for various properties—no addresses, but hey…why be so choosy?  Ms. Music cautioned us away from Naukati (pronounced naẃ́-kuh-tee), which naturally piqued our interest, but this was a place that had several really nice-looking pieces of property online which we had been really enamored with. She then touted Whale Pass—so we were looking forward to our future exploration adventures.  She left us with this final tip:  "You just have to try Dave's Diner in Klawock—they have the best burgers anywhere on the island!"

It so happens that we were headed for Klawock, where the other realty company (Studio Klawock) was, and we were ready for lunch too, so off we scooted to Dave's Diner. 

Okay…so there IS a building called Dave's Diner…it's full of smoke, which most POW places are—Note to selves:  Moving to POW may involve taking up defensive cigarette-smoking—but it was the kitchen that had us worried.  Evidently the broken-down bus attached to the side is the kitchen. Dave had to clean it up to pass inspection but, by golly, he did it!  You can't really see into the kitchen for the smoke and grime, but you can see shadows and sense the confidence of someone handling some cooking utensils back there.  Feeling adventurous—hey, we're here to experience the real flavor of the island, right?—we tackled lunch, and still feel a sense of pride that our strong constitutions somehow held us together.

I should explain that before walking into Studio Klawock Realty, we already had the distinct impression that these Alaskans are a tough robust crowd of folks.  And acquiring the tough exterior takes some layering, shall we say.  You don't get the feeling that anyone goes hungry—rather, they store the fat to stay warm and tackle anything from bears to snow storms.  But I would trust just about any of them to carry Chris and me simultaneously on either shoulder, maybe staggering a bit from all of the alcohol consumption, across icy straights and 100 mph winds…and the MEN there are just about as boisterous and strong!

So, imagine our surprise, when we entered Studio Klawock Realty and were greeted by Melissa Chapple, an attractive thin woman with a British accent who is into organic foods!  She was a delightful, refreshing encounter and intrigued us with her spirited terms like "a bit of bush-bashing" to get at certain pieces of property.  Like Leah, she didn't have pleasant adjectives for Naukati:  "No-no.  Don't recommend that one; the people sit about on the porch of the main store staring at everyone and it just scares people you know?"  She emphasized this bit by humming a couple bars from "Deliverance"—"Doo-doo-doot-doot-do-doot-do-doot-do!"  

Melissa was able to print out listings for us and showed us where everything was on various maps—extremely helpful.  We were intrigued by some Gutchi Bay property and she gave us the directions to that:  "Well, you follow the Basket or Bucket signs—I can't remember—before you get to Naukati, and you'll follow those roads around.  There will be lots of choices and you always want to follow the road most used…and it probably wouldn't hurt to throw out some bread crumbs so you can find your way back—it's easy to get yourself lost on this island!"

Well…we were pretty excited about what adventures lay ahead.  At this point in the day, however, we didn't have much time left in terms of traveling, so we decided to check out some of the Hollis properties that Melissa gave us maps to.

The direction of "if you get to the RediMix, you've gone too far" should have been our first clue on these properties…the quarry didn't appear to be a quiet neighborhood, so we decided to check out the town itself. 

She had made the Hollis community sound appealing—a rather intellectual group (library, book-readers, etc.).  It was good in concept, but reality didn't impress us much.  The library was basically a trailer and the yin-yang of nice-next-to-dump carried on in this community as well.  Chris was particularly taken with the sign that said, "Beware of High Tide—Road May Disappear".  Makes ya just want to plunk down that savings account right now, doesn't it?

It's at this point, that—okay, I know…ex-English teacher in me!—I MUST say something about some of the signs.  We came across several signs that were spelled differently than pronounced, like:  "Pennisula"—this is a road in Hollis that everyone refers to as "Peninsula Road".  There's not just one street sign, but TWO spelled this way.  We encountered a boat named AKSALA, and pictured a guy drinking beer and applying letters onto the boat, spelling Alaska…but instead of applying them left to right, did them right to left.  And, my favorite, acronyms that cannot be pronounced:  "SEARHC"—say that one, will ya?  It stands for "SE Alaska Regional Health Consortium".  Could someone NOT have maybe used "Community Health" and created SEARCH…??  What's the point of an acronym you have to spell out…????  Okay, I'm calmed down now…don't mind me…

We decided to get some groceries, movies, and check in with the sandwich-maker that Melissa had recommended ("she puts on lots of fresh foods and doesn't skimp!") to see how early we might be able to pick up some of her sandwiches for our road food the following day.  The time was right—she would open at 6:00 a.m.—but the fact that she was talking about her head cold and coughing into her hand continuously kind of encouraged us to by more groceries and make our own…  She had a parting recommendation to "be sure and check out the Mud Bogg races in Naukati this Sunday—it's a big deal and the whole community comes together for it—a lot of fun!!"  We politely said we would sure think about it and made a mental note to be on the other side of the island that day…  Experiencing the real flavor of the island had its limits.

Off to our B&B oasis for dinner and a movie…

Fri. 5/25/07—Day 3

The morning didn't start out well at all.  Chris calls it the "day shift/night shift" difference between the two of us.  He was up and moving around by 4:00 a.m.—excited to start the day and begin our plans for the future.  I tried to ignore him, thinking my vacation plans included a little R&R—maybe sleeping in until 6:00 or so—and I didn't get up until 5:20, at which time he was chomping at the bit to get going.  By the time I had showered he was sending me dagger looks with his snit and I finally got in a snit of my own, hopping into the truck with wet uncombed hair so that we would leave by 6:00.  We didn't speak to each other much the first part of the trip, which is just as well.  Later on, we would have plenty to distract us and discuss as it turned out…

Before Naukati, we saw the "Basket" sign that Melissa had referred to, so we turned in.  The sign indicated that this Tom Baskett's shop, where Gutchi Bay is located, was 3.5 miles.  After driving for a little while, we saw a sign that indicated the shop's name and "1.0 mile".  Hmmmmm…  It sure didn't seem like we had traveled for that long.  Next sign says "Basket Shop 2 miles".  Ah-hah!!!  So we're now counting the miles we have BEEN rather than how many we have left.  This should have been our first clue to the Gutchi Bay intellect…

Upon arriving at Gutchi, we were awed by the privacy, beautiful view of the bay and the quiet we experienced when walking from one of the cabins for sale to the bay.  However, when driving through to the Baskett shop, we saw the potential for noisy neighbors—all kinds of huge machinery, chain saws, etc.  We stopped at other various properties and were still impressed by the surrounding beauty.

Then we decided to "meet the neighbors"…

We saw the 3 folks working around/over a truck and got out of our rental rig to approach and introduce ourselves.  Little did we know that we were interrupting the 9:00 a.m. Gutchi happy hour.  Neighbor #1:  Tom Buoy, a gentleman sporting chew, a beer, and a cap that said "Penitentiary".  Neighbor #2:  Tom's "squeeze", a woman who Chris described later as someone whose list of things she hadn't done was pretty short; she was wearing a t-shirt broadcasting, "Obviously, you've confused me with someone who gives a shit."  Neighbor #3:  Not sure we ever understood anything he said as his wad of chew was consuming half of his face.

Continuing on with our neighborly quest, Chris began by commenting about "wanting to get away from the hustle/bustle of society" and faces lit up, knowing looks were exchanged…much laughter ensued.  Then a common bonding occurred and Tom exclaimed, "Oh yeah!  We're ALL getting away from someone or SOMETHING!"  More laughter/knowing looks…swigs of beer, spits of chew.

We shook hands, and thus ended our tour of Gutchi Bay.

Now onto Naukati, the town that touts the store where we wanted to at LEAST pick up some antibacterial wipes after shaking Tom Buoy's hand—no telling where that thing had, and hadn't, been…ugh!!

The road into Naukati was anything but lovely and the store which, incidentally, is for sale at $175,000, a real steal—includes gas station, post office, ATM machine, and, most importantly, liquor store—was everything that was promised, Deliverance-wise that is.  The townspeople not only populated the porch but also circled chairs around the cash register "queen" they referred to as "Grandma" as if holding court or hanging out in someone's living room.  We literally had to step over them to get to the aisles where we actually did find some antibacterial wipes—it was dusty and had probably been there for a time, and Chris is thinking maybe they don't know what to do with them—clean their cars off with 'em from time to time, that kind of thing.

While "shopping", we overheard the citizenry quite up in arms because the ATM machine was down—out of money!  We were trying to envision the poor souls who have to come refill that machine and understood a possible reluctance on their part.

Well, we certainly couldn't leave Naukati without at least taking a look at the Mud Bogg race track—and all were atwitter about this upcoming event—much liquefying of the track and themselves in preparation for the great day ahead.  And we made another mental note to be somewhere—or ANYWHERE—else that day.

As we climbed out of the bogg of Naukati, the sun came out and our spirits lifted somewhat—and lifted even higher as we hit Neck Lake, a beautiful oasis just south of Whale Pass where the only sound is the call of the loons.  We took our time here, taking pictures of the lake while Chris had several conversations with the loons who were actually answering him—such a way with the fowl, that man!  With this breath of fresh air, we moved on full of all kinds of hope about Whale Pass. 

We even saw wildlife we had not expected, as well as one we were looking for in earnest!  At one of our stops, a place called Sarkar Lake, we had encountered a Forestry Biology graduate student whose thesis involved counting spruce grouse on the island—tough job, we thought!—and she enlisted our help to watch for and report back to the Craig Ranger Station any that we saw.  She additionally educated us about species that do not exist on the island, like possums and rabbits, and explained that the only squirrels on the island are flying squirrels—interesting!

So, we felt fortunate to come upon a grouse after we left her, because she had explained that they appeared to be rare, and THEN we even saw a rabbit!  The rabbit was obviously a domestic run-away, but spotting these critters gave us even more hope as we traveled closer to Whale Pass.  We took them as GOOD signs.

After leaving the rabbit, we were looking forward to encountering "Donna's Place" on Whale Pass, where Chris had learned of a cabin for sale.  We rounded the corner, and saw the sign for Donna's Place. It was here that we realized our rabbit was probably the last good sign for some time to come…

The sign itself was creative enough, posted on wood planks inside of a canoe, it boasted the various attributes—GAS, CABINS, etc.  Cabins GALORE there were at Donna's Place, but it takes some real investigative skills to spot them in between rusty machinery, tons of junk, rusted out vehicles left to die, and appliances past their prime.  "Oh," we said in unison, "It's our POW usual." 

We couldn't put the car in gear fast enough, then spent enough time in Whale Pass proper to be bummed once again by lack of offerings.  Nothing screaming at us to buy yet, or even stick around for much of a visit!

By now we had started to realize that little Coffman Cove, where we had already spent 2 wonderful vacations, was probably the best thing going.  Those of you who shared those trips with us know that it was indeed a small dumpy town but had its character as a vacation spot.  As we talked to island locals and realtors alike, we learned quickly that Coffman Cove currently sports an "uppity" reputation.  Why?  Not only do they have a ferry stop now, but they have the gall to have built 3 blocks' worth of sidewalks, the nerve of them!

Since we had already learned of a road closure that would make going to Coffman Cove impossible from the southeast end of the island, a route we had planned to take the following day, we decided it would make more sense to go ahead and go over there today via the detour road, which was actually closer to where we were.  Besides, wouldn't it help our disappointments of late to see little Coffman Cove again?  Sure…let's do it…

This road we had traveled before had been improved, and we enjoyed the fruits of those labors—not as many huge pits and bumps to overcome!—but were a bit taken aback by all of the bulldozed roads sporting street signs through forest just 2 miles outside of Coffman Cove…obviously, future vacation spots.  Ah, progress.

We arrived at the familiar Coffman Cove sign we know and love, now sitting beside a freshly-paved road.  We toured the ferry stop—very professional-looking operation!—and then stopped by the Riggin' Shack to have a look-see.  Some things don't change, and the Riggin' Shack is one of these…except for the sinking floor, which may be a little worse for wear, as we felt like we'd go through it at any moment.  The one-pump gas station is still there, but no trailer out back housing the "pumper"…not sure how that works now, but we noted the $3.84 price per gallon.

Here we go with another sign issue…  Proudly displayed at various points along our journey were signs for the "Coffman Cove Restaurant".  Wow!  This is new—we'll have to check it out!  Melissa had said she spent some time looking for it and never did find it, so we felt obligated to at least research that bit.  Rounding the corner to head for the Riggin' Shack, there it was again on a pole, with an ARROW pointing, "Coffman Cove Restaurant".  We followed the arrow and looked, looked, looked, and ended up at the port-a-potty at the end of the dock.  H-mmmmm.  Okay.  Try again…same result.  We finally asked the gal in the Riggin' Shack where it was.  "Oh, they SOLD it…it's the maroon trailer down the road…we're all very sad by it."  I guess they're so nostalgic they can't even stand to take the sign down.  Makes for good conversation…and it probably adds to their "uppity" nature anyway, so the gossip-mongers will stay well-fed.

Well, we were not impressed with any real estate there, and decided to head back to our B&B in Craig once again.  When we arrived, Gary and Alecia met us with a basket full of treats and we gave them a rundown of some of our day's events.  When we got on the topic of Naukati, Gary smiled a wan smile and said, "Yes, well, you know…it may help you to know that Naukati has the highest per capita percentage of felons of anywhere."  Ah-hah!!!  That explains a LOT.  Then he continued on by mentioning the felon count at Thorne Bay which was our planned destination for the following day.  He must have seen our crest-fallen looks because he immediately added, "Well, they ARE a better class of felons at Thorne Bay, really…they just want to keep to themselves and have everyone leave them alone."

We were once again ready for the escape into one of our rental videos…

Sat. 5/26/07—Day 4

Well fortified with breakfast—Chris had made a big 'un!—we headed over towards Thorne Bay, but decided to seek out South Thorne Bay first, as our Forestry student had mentioned this area as one we might like.  We took the road towards Kasaan (pronounced kuh-sằnn), and turned off on a side road to South Thorne Bay, and were pleasantly surprised in terms of nicer places, less junk, and pretty surroundings.  We talked to an older couple there—he had lived there over 30 years—and we were impressed with their life there.  He did mention the disappointments with the influx of population, and we could certainly understand that.

We had not heard anything about Kasaan, but decided to take a look at it since we were on this road anyway.  Wow—WHAT a spot!  After all that we had experienced so far, this was like some kind of make-believe Utopia.  A small community placed around a gorgeous bay with no junk to speak of—whew!  We immediately began filming and even toying with various vacation and/or business venture ideas.  The "Kafe" and surrounding residences were for sale and it was something we were considering, along with a quaint residence at the end of the cove.  The "For Sale" sign on this residence had a phone number on it, but also invited "or talk to owner".  Chris decided to knock on the guy's door and we were thus introduced to Skip Eskavon, a retired fisherman, his wife Linda, and an absolutely adorable Native American boy of about 8 named Julio who obviously visited their house frequently and was fishing "buds" with Skip.

We immediately liked these folks, and especially appreciated the frankness with which Skip shared things with us.  We were definitely impressed with their warm welcoming and hospitality, even though we were unexpected/uninvited guests…and Julio was even, for a time at least, gleefully sacrificing some of his fishing time with Skip—they were just getting ready to head out when we arrived—and pointing out things as we walked around the property, reminding us a lot of our B&B Alecia back in Craig.

Through Skip we learned of 3 red flags to discourage investments there: (1) poor drinking water—"the kind that boiling can't cure"; (2) miners moving in—"the tribe sold land surrounding us here to miners and they've been helicoptering in already"; and (3) the "hurricane alley" affect—"Yeah, we get 100 mph winds sometimes here."  We had heard Craig talk about the winds there—the locals actually call Craig "Little Chicago"—but Chris pointed out later to me that the winds THERE actually come from THIS region.  Yikes.  Since he is trying to sell the place eventually, Chris thought maybe Skip might want to hone up on his selling skills, or leave it in the hands of realtors from now on, but we sure appreciated knowing this stuff.

We were educated with all kinds of various island building requirements and fortifications that Skip shared and were meanwhile continuously charmed by Julio.  At one point, Chris asked about the underneath of the house and any potential problems there, to which Skip immediately opened up the crawl-space hatch so he could take a look.  Julio right away asked exuberantly, "Do you want me to crawl under there for ya?!!"

From Kasaan, we drove back to Thorne Bay proper and looked mostly at the boats there at the dock, as we were now starting to think of abandoning the Alaskan land idea, and maybe pursuing gunk holing, or some other form of boat-type lifestyle.

It was time to head back, and we decided to treat ourselves to dinner out at the only restaurant we knew of on the island:  Ruth Anne's Restaurant in Craig.  I had a halibut hankering and we figured we could fare well there. 

The halibut was great but the restaurant's right next to the bar and there was a lot of loud music and profanities as well as the obligatory smoke drifting in as we dined.  Okay, so it's not quite the Ritz!  We also were blessed with a rather spunky/spacey waitress who seemed more intent on keeping us there with her lack of response in order to give her a break.  I forgot to mention that the annual marathon from Hollis to Craig took place that weekend, and there was evidently quite an upswing in the amount of people she had to serve.  It took us a long time to get served and get the check.  Oh well…how else to spend our time, really?  Chris was able to pass a few minutes sharing our grouse citing of the day before after he spotted our Forestry student with her boyfriend on the dock.  I asked him how enthused she was that we had seen one and he shrugged, "Well, ya know…she's with her boyfriend."  Guess education's just not everything, is it?

Sun. 5/27/07—Day 5

We were up and "outta here" by 6:30 to "beat the marathon", only to find out while gassing up that the actual event had taken place yesterday—we already missed it!  We got invited once again to the Mud Bogg Races in Naukati, smiled and said, "Okay—thanks!" and drove off in the opposite direction.

Today's exploration was off of a road heading towards Hydaburg, a town we were steered away from as it's a native town not friendly towards non-natives.  You'll be happy to know that we actually took the advice this time.

We got off onto the 12 Mile Arm Road and the bay there is a beautiful spot!  Not sure what the fishing is like as it's pretty far in from the ocean, but we did see sea lions there, so we know there must be something to entice them!

Venturing on up into Pass Lake (into the snow line), we proceeded to walk/"bear hunt" with our camera.  Right as we approached the lake (after tromping through some snow), a huge prehistoric-sounding bird sprung up from somewhere just out of sight—making a sound neither of us could quite identify—which got our adrenaline pumping and was quite awesome out there in the middle of nowhere.  The lake is gorgeous and we got a shot of it before heading back to the rig.

We stopped at other places along the way, to "bear hunt" once again as we hiked roads.  No bears, but did come upon deer and lots of pretty scenery.

On our way back, we decided to once again check out Hollis and look for any secret pretty spots that might be there.  Conclusion:  they are still a secret!  There were just more disappointments of the POW usual—lots of junky in between some pretty.

I had thought we could venture over to the Craig Point Park and try out the walking trail there, as it looked intriguing, so we drove over and started to park when Chris pointed out a critter to me moving not far away from us.  At first we thought we had spotted another rarity, a non-flying squirrel, on the island, but soon realized it was a little gray & white precious kitty, making his way towards us. 

Oh no.  Obviously, it was abandoned there.  Being from out of town, we were at a loss as to what to do.  I got out and the kitty rushed towards me.  Trying not to get attached, I got out and watched with anxiety as he jumped up underneath the truck.  I got him out from under there, and then he purred and shivered in my arms.  I looked up at Chris and we both had that sad look in our eyes…whatever do we DO?  Okay, first things first:  the kitty is bony and obviously hungry.  We'll feed him and then decide.  A carload was leaving the park and we flagged them down—"Do you know where we take this abandoned kitty?"  Luckily, she had a suggestion—to the police station, or "cop shop" as she called it, and gave us directions to there.  Great.  Now we've got a plan at least.  We were both showered with much cuddling and purring by "Copter Kitty", our nick-name for him.

Chris drove to the Craig grocery store and bought little packs of dried cat food and we were able to feed him—not hard to do as he was ravenous—and then headed over to the "cop shop".  I was expecting a lukewarm reception and was not looking forward to this, but we figured it was better than leaving him out in the cold.  As we drove up to the station, there was a pizza delivery person just getting back into his car to drive up, so we figured no one could be too busy in there at least.

Chris said his goodbye to Copter and I headed into the station armed with him and the packets of food.  Through the door I go, and 2 women in uniforms eating pizza look up at me.  "Can we help you?" one of them said, eyeing Copter.  I explained that we were out of town, and found this kitty, and…before I could get a complete sentence finished, one of them reached out for Copter and much cooing and "oohs" and "aahs" followed.  I could hear Copter purring from where I stood as he was embraced by the two, one saying, "Boy, you brought this guy to the wrong people—we LOVE cats!" to which I answered that this made it the right place.  Copter was very interested in their pizza, their love, and their warm station.  I think he said, "Thanks," as I left him behind.

When I got back to the rig, I relayed the event to Chris and we both got all sappy and moist-eyed about it.  What ELSE could possibly happen that we were NOT expecting on this trip??

Don't ask…don't ask…

First, I should explain the "Blue Tarp Abode" on the right just as you're entering into Craig proper.  Words cannot do it justice, so it's a good thing we got this residence on film, but suffice it to say that it looks like something Popeye would have pieced together on a bad hangover day.  No angles meet, a blue tarp seems to serve as a roof, and there seems to be obvious drug-dealing activities there.  His front yard is a cove, his back yard is a wide assortment of piled junk.  At first we thought it was a thing of the past, but then saw smoke curling out of the stack above it—oh my!!  We filmed it so much that we evidently flushed a fellow out of there with his brown-paper bottle bag.  Probably thought we were the police or something, we figured.

Okay, so on our way out of Craig, we approach the Blue Tarp thinking maybe another filming episode when we saw 2 guys in camouflage with their binoculars trained somewhere behind Blue Tarp cove.  I got a brief flash of what they were looking at—a BEAR!  Chris stopped/parked and we finally got a bear on film.  A "townie"…Chris says that doesn’t count.  Oh well…it was still exciting and something ELSE unexpected!  What a cap on the day!

Mon. 5/28/07—Day 6

Finished movies over breakfast and lolled around a little this morning.  No huge hurry, as our only goal today was to see how far we could get on the road between Thorne Bay and Coffman Cove—the road that the biology student had told us was impassable due to snow at the top.

Sandy Beach was a first stop—a place we had stopped at before and been impressed with.  We parked next to the only other vehicle, a beat-up POW usual-looking van.  Chris predicted that it probably made some noise.  Then a loud-screaming woman appeared on the scene coming back from the beach.  She was constantly "good-boy/bad-boy"ing a dog as she tried to get it and the kids back into their vehicle.  Sure enough, the noise it emitted did not disappoint—a huge boiling/gurgling and sputtering/coughing as she tried to start up her rig.  She ended up in trouble, unable to start, and another POW rig pulled up to help her out with more shouting and car-starting sounds.  We decided it wasn't the right time for us to visit Sandy Beach and took our leave…not sure we were even noticed by the crew.

Making our way up the road, we stopped at Little Ratz Bay and then Big Ratz Bay/Harbor and were pleased to see that these places were still nice—still some boating/canoeing possibilities there!  Of course, we had the place to ourselves that day and weren't sure that would be the case on a true summer day up there…

We broke the crest—got through the snow—and were able to be the "town criers" for some folks coming the other way from Coffman Cove that the pass was actually passable.  The Coffman Cove liquor store owner was ecstatic over the news and she and the POW Chamber of Commerce woman cursed themselves for not bringing their wallets so they could shop on "the other side".

We went ahead and drove to Coffman, then back to Craig.  We gave Port St. Nicholas road another chance with our "new eyes" we had developed since day 2, but alas, nothing screamed at us once again.

And thus ended our tour of POW…  Tomorrow would prove to be the actions of Day 1 only in reverse, this time only taking 16 hours with shorter lay-over time between the main ferry and airport ferry in Ketchikan.

We were glad we came and did the research but certainly were surprised at the answers we got.  In fact, I was thinking that if this were a Jeopardy game and we were given some of the answers we received first, we wouldn't have a clue in the world as to what the questions were to begin with!  Goodbye, POW…