So Chris and I venture forth with the following in
mind: maybe retiring somewhere in SE Alaska,
with some kind of semi-retirement small business perhaps--or even just having a
piece of property there…possibly vacationing every summer there…all of this
appealed to us and why not just do a week on POW—where we have already had 2
wonderful vacations—and research all of the possibilities? Any answers would be answers nonetheless,
right?
Little did we know that some of those answers were really
going to surprise us, and we would gather enough fodder in the process to
script a movie entitled "When Deliverance Meets Hee-Haw"!
Getting to POW went pretty much as planned/expected—staying at
Ramada Inn at Portland (PDX) Airport Tuesday (5/22) night, flying out of PDX
early, changing planes in Seattle, flying into Ketchikan, ferrying over from
airport to Ketchikan proper, taking the POW ferry to POW, picking up our rental
car at the Hollis ferry terminal, getting to the B&B in Craig—and took us
from early a.m., getting up around 4:00 a.m. at the Ramada to get our stuff
ready and through security to catch our 6:00 a.m. flight, to later p.m.,
arriving at our B&B around 9:00 p.m. Alaska time (10:00 p.m. Oregon time). All in all, it was approximately 18
hours.
There were no real hitches except for the fact that we had
to haul our luggage from the Airport ferry terminal in Ketchikan to the POW ferry terminal—only 3
blocks but it was through construction and gravel—where we learned that wheeled
bags really don't care for "off-roading" it. Then we had to wait 3 hours—lots of Cribbage
games!--for the ferry we boarded in Ketchikan, and since there is no way to store
luggage—no lockers to be found—we once again wheeled our luggage across the
street so that we could get a bite to eat before heading back once again to the
terminal. We had one little introduction
with an Alaskan native on the ferry who shouted from her car, "Okay, so
just announce to the whole f---ing ferry that I'm bed-ridden and knocked
up!" They're a tough sporty bunch
alright.
Arriving at the B&B was a welcome treat—and Chris gets
extra points for finding/landing us this one!
Although the landmarks were questionable and had us worried—the run-down
Shaan Seet Trailer Court, the gravel pit, the dump—the B&B turned out to be
sweet. Run by a really nice couple in
Craig—Christina Barlow is a high school English teacher and her husband Gary is with the forest
service—the Overlook Inn provided us with everything we could possibly have
wanted, and more—all new appliances, great view, very clean surroundings, and
breakfast was on our own with food delivered to our door! We also were shown through the place by their
darling young daughter, Alecia, who pointed out all of the amenities, opening
cupboards and expounding on contents, including the jigsaw puzzle stored in the
futon "cubbie". It didn't take
us long to decide to stay there for the entire week while we scouted the island.
Thur. 5/24/07 —Day 2
We awoke with enthusiasm to get going with our research…
Our first encounter with POW realtors was with Island Realty
in Craig. We entered and were greeted by
a sweet-looking woman named Leah Music who asked if she could help, so Chris
began explaining that we were interested in properties and real estate on the
island. At this instant, the gentleman
who occupied the only office in the joint abruptly got up, smiled at us, and
left. That was Doc, we were to
learn. He was the realtor. Okayyyyyy.
So maybe customer service wasn't a top priority.
Leah did her best to educate us but she was having trouble
operating the machinery—computer, printer—surrounding her and couldn't get us
any printouts to go by. She finally copied
off some hand-written notes that we could follow for various properties—no
addresses, but hey…why be so choosy? Ms.
Music cautioned us away from Naukati (pronounced naẃ́-kuh-tee), which
naturally piqued our interest, but this was a place that had several really
nice-looking pieces of property online which we had been really enamored with.
She then touted Whale
Pass
It so happens that we were headed for Klawock, where the
other realty company (Studio Klawock) was, and we were ready for lunch too, so
off we scooted to Dave's Diner.
Okay…so there IS a building called Dave's Diner…it's full of
smoke, which most POW places are—Note to selves: Moving to POW may involve taking up defensive
cigarette-smoking—but it was the kitchen that had us worried. Evidently the broken-down bus attached to the
side is the kitchen. Dave had to clean it up to pass inspection but, by golly,
he did it! You can't really see into the
kitchen for the smoke and grime, but you can see shadows and sense the
confidence of someone handling some cooking utensils back there. Feeling adventurous—hey, we're here to
experience the real flavor of the island, right?—we tackled lunch, and still
feel a sense of pride that our strong constitutions somehow held us together.
I should explain that before walking into Studio Klawock
Realty, we already had the distinct impression that these Alaskans are a tough
robust crowd of folks. And acquiring the
tough exterior takes some layering, shall we say. You don't get the feeling that anyone goes
hungry—rather, they store the fat to stay warm and tackle anything from bears
to snow storms. But I would trust just
about any of them to carry Chris and me simultaneously on either shoulder, maybe
staggering a bit from all of the alcohol consumption, across icy straights and
100 mph winds…and the MEN there are just about as boisterous and strong!
So, imagine our surprise, when we entered Studio Klawock
Realty and were greeted by Melissa Chapple, an attractive thin woman with a
British accent who is into organic foods!
She was a delightful, refreshing encounter and intrigued us with her
spirited terms like "a bit of bush-bashing" to get at certain pieces
of property. Like Leah, she didn't have
pleasant adjectives for Naukati:
"No-no. Don't recommend that
one; the people sit about on the porch of the main store staring at everyone
and it just scares people you know?"
She emphasized this bit by humming a couple bars from
"Deliverance"—"Doo-doo-doot-doot-do-doot-do-doot-do!"
Melissa was able to print out listings for us and showed us
where everything was on various maps—extremely helpful. We were intrigued by some Gutchi Bay
Well…we were pretty excited about what adventures lay
ahead. At this point in the day,
however, we didn't have much time left in terms of traveling, so we decided to
check out some of the Hollis properties that Melissa gave us maps to.
The direction of "if you get to the RediMix, you've
gone too far" should have been our first clue on these properties…the
quarry didn't appear to be a quiet neighborhood, so we decided to check out the
town itself.
She had made the Hollis community sound appealing—a rather
intellectual group (library, book-readers, etc.). It was good in concept, but reality didn't
impress us much. The library was
basically a trailer and the yin-yang of nice-next-to-dump carried on in this
community as well. Chris was particularly
taken with the sign that said, "Beware of High Tide—Road May
Disappear". Makes ya just want to
plunk down that savings account right now, doesn't it?
It's at this point, that—okay, I know…ex-English teacher in
me!—I MUST say something about some of the signs. We came across several signs that were
spelled differently than pronounced, like:
"Pennisula"—this is a road in Hollis that everyone refers to
as "Peninsula Road ". There's not just one street sign, but TWO
spelled this way. We encountered a boat
named AKSALA, and pictured a guy drinking beer and applying letters onto the
boat, spelling Alaska…but instead of applying them left to right, did them
right to left. And, my favorite,
acronyms that cannot be pronounced:
"SEARHC"—say that one, will ya? It stands for "SE Alaska Regional Health
Consortium". Could someone NOT have
maybe used "Community Health" and created SEARCH…?? What's the point of an acronym you have to
spell out…???? Okay, I'm calmed down
now…don't mind me…
We decided to get some groceries, movies, and check in with
the sandwich-maker that Melissa had recommended ("she puts on lots of
fresh foods and doesn't skimp!") to see how early we might be able to pick
up some of her sandwiches for our road food the following day. The time was right—she would open at 6:00
a.m.—but the fact that she was talking about her head cold and coughing into
her hand continuously kind of encouraged us to by more groceries and make our
own… She had a parting recommendation to
"be sure and check out the Mud Bogg races in Naukati this Sunday—it's a
big deal and the whole community comes together for it—a lot of
fun!!" We politely said we would
sure think about it and made a mental note to be on the other side of the
island that day… Experiencing the real
flavor of the island had its limits.
Off to our B&B oasis for dinner and a movie…
The morning didn't start out well at all. Chris calls it the "day shift/night
shift" difference between the two of us.
He was up and moving around by 4:00
a.m. —excited to start the day and begin our plans for the
future. I tried to ignore him, thinking
my vacation plans included a little R&R—maybe sleeping in until 6:00 or so—and
I didn't get up until 5:20, at which time he was chomping at the bit to get
going. By the time I had showered he was
sending me dagger looks with his snit and I finally got in a snit of my own,
hopping into the truck with wet uncombed hair so that we would leave by 6:00 .
We didn't speak to each other much the first part of the trip, which is
just as well. Later on, we would have
plenty to distract us and discuss as it turned out…
Before Naukati, we saw the "Basket" sign that
Melissa had referred to, so we turned in.
The sign indicated that this Tom Baskett's shop, where Gutchi Bay Gutchi Bay
Upon arriving at Gutchi, we were awed by the privacy, beautiful
view of the bay and the quiet we experienced when walking from one of the
cabins for sale to the bay. However, when
driving through to the Baskett shop, we saw the potential for noisy
neighbors—all kinds of huge machinery, chain saws, etc. We stopped at other various properties and
were still impressed by the surrounding beauty.
Then we decided to "meet the neighbors"…
We saw the 3 folks working around/over a truck and got out
of our rental rig to approach and introduce ourselves. Little did we know that we were interrupting
the 9:00 a.m. Gutchi happy
hour. Neighbor #1: Tom Buoy, a gentleman sporting chew, a beer,
and a cap that said "Penitentiary".
Neighbor #2: Tom's
"squeeze", a woman who Chris described later as someone whose list of
things she hadn't done was pretty short; she was wearing a t-shirt
broadcasting, "Obviously, you've confused me with someone who gives a
shit." Neighbor #3: Not sure we ever understood anything he said
as his wad of chew was consuming half of his face.
Continuing on with our neighborly quest, Chris began by
commenting about "wanting to get away from the hustle/bustle of
society" and faces lit up, knowing looks were exchanged…much laughter
ensued. Then a common bonding occurred
and Tom exclaimed, "Oh yeah! We're
ALL getting away from someone or SOMETHING!" More laughter/knowing looks…swigs of beer,
spits of chew.
We shook hands, and thus ended our tour of Gutchi Bay
Now onto Naukati, the town that touts the store where we
wanted to at LEAST pick up some antibacterial wipes after shaking Tom Buoy's
hand—no telling where that thing had, and hadn't, been…ugh!!
The road into Naukati was anything but lovely and the store
which, incidentally, is for sale at $175,000, a real steal—includes gas
station, post office, ATM machine, and, most importantly, liquor store—was
everything that was promised, Deliverance-wise that is. The townspeople not only populated the porch
but also circled chairs around the cash register "queen" they
referred to as "Grandma" as if holding court or hanging out in
someone's living room. We literally had
to step over them to get to the aisles where we actually did find some
antibacterial wipes—it was dusty and had probably been there for a time, and Chris
is thinking maybe they don't know what to do with them—clean their cars off
with 'em from time to time, that kind of thing.
While "shopping", we overheard the citizenry quite
up in arms because the ATM machine was down—out of money! We were trying to envision the poor souls who
have to come refill that machine and understood a possible reluctance on their
part.
Well, we certainly couldn't leave Naukati without at least
taking a look at the Mud Bogg race track—and all were atwitter about this
upcoming event—much liquefying of the track and themselves in preparation for
the great day ahead. And we made another
mental note to be somewhere—or ANYWHERE—else that day.
As we climbed out of the bogg of Naukati, the sun came out
and our spirits lifted somewhat—and lifted even higher as we hit Neck Lake, a
beautiful oasis just south of Whale Pass where the only sound is the call of
the loons. We took our time here, taking
pictures of the lake while Chris had several conversations with the loons who
were actually answering him—such a way with the fowl, that man! With this breath of fresh air, we moved on
full of all kinds of hope about Whale
Pass.
We even saw wildlife we had not expected, as well as one we were
looking for in earnest! At one of our
stops, a place called Sarkar Lake, we had encountered a Forestry Biology
graduate student whose thesis involved counting spruce grouse on the
island—tough job, we thought!—and she enlisted our help to watch for and report
back to the Craig Ranger Station any that we saw. She additionally educated us about species
that do not exist on the island, like possums and rabbits, and explained that
the only squirrels on the island are flying squirrels—interesting!
So, we felt fortunate to come upon a grouse after we left
her, because she had explained that they appeared to be rare, and THEN we even
saw a rabbit! The rabbit was obviously a
domestic run-away, but spotting these critters gave us even more hope as we
traveled closer to Whale
Pass.
After leaving the rabbit, we were looking forward to
encountering "Donna's Place" on Whale Pass
The sign itself was creative enough, posted on wood planks
inside of a canoe, it boasted the various attributes—GAS, CABINS, etc. Cabins GALORE there were at Donna's Place,
but it takes some real investigative skills to spot them in between rusty machinery,
tons of junk, rusted out vehicles left to die, and appliances past their
prime. "Oh," we said in
unison, "It's our POW usual."
We couldn't put the car in gear fast enough, then spent
enough time in Whale Pass proper to be bummed once again by lack of offerings. Nothing screaming at us to buy yet, or even
stick around for much of a visit!
By now we had started to realize that little Coffman Cove, where
we had already spent 2 wonderful vacations, was probably the best thing
going. Those of you who shared those
trips with us know that it was indeed a small dumpy town but had its character
as a vacation spot. As we talked to island
locals and realtors alike, we learned quickly that Coffman Cove currently
sports an "uppity" reputation.
Why? Not only do they have a
ferry stop now, but they have the gall to have built 3 blocks' worth of
sidewalks, the nerve of them!
Since we had already learned of a road closure that would
make going to Coffman Cove impossible from the southeast end of the island, a
route we had planned to take the following day, we decided it would make more
sense to go ahead and go over there today via the detour road, which was
actually closer to where we were.
Besides, wouldn't it help our disappointments of late to see little
Coffman Cove again? Sure…let's do it…
This road we had traveled before had been improved, and we
enjoyed the fruits of those labors—not as many huge pits and bumps to
overcome!—but were a bit taken aback by all of the bulldozed roads sporting
street signs through forest just 2 miles outside of Coffman Cove…obviously,
future vacation spots. Ah, progress.
We arrived at the familiar Coffman Cove sign we know and
love, now sitting beside a freshly-paved road.
We toured the ferry stop—very professional-looking operation!—and then
stopped by the Riggin' Shack to have a look-see. Some things don't change, and the Riggin'
Shack is one of these…except for the sinking floor, which may be a little worse
for wear, as we felt like we'd go through it at any moment. The one-pump gas station is still there, but
no trailer out back housing the "pumper"…not sure how that works now,
but we noted the $3.84 price per gallon.
Here we go with another sign issue… Proudly displayed at various points along our
journey were signs for the "Coffman Cove Restaurant". Wow!
This is new—we'll have to check it out!
Melissa had said she spent some time looking for it and never did find
it, so we felt obligated to at least research that bit. Rounding the corner to head for the Riggin'
Shack, there it was again on a pole, with an ARROW pointing, "Coffman Cove
Restaurant". We followed the arrow
and looked, looked, looked, and ended up at the port-a-potty at the end of the
dock. H-mmmmm. Okay.
Try again…same result. We finally
asked the gal in the Riggin' Shack where it was. "Oh, they SOLD it…it's the maroon
trailer down the road…we're all very sad by it." I guess they're so nostalgic they can't even
stand to take the sign down. Makes for
good conversation…and it probably adds to their "uppity" nature
anyway, so the gossip-mongers will stay well-fed.
Well, we were not impressed with any real estate there, and
decided to head back to our B&B in Craig once again. When we arrived, Gary and Alecia met us with
a basket full of treats and we gave them a rundown of some of our day's
events. When we got on the topic of
Naukati, Gary
smiled a wan smile and said, "Yes, well, you know…it may help you to know
that Naukati has the highest per capita percentage of felons of
anywhere." Ah-hah!!! That explains a LOT . Then he continued on by mentioning the felon
count at Thorne Bay Thorne
Bay
We were once again ready for the escape into one of our
rental videos…
Well fortified with breakfast—Chris had made a big 'un!—we
headed over towards Thorne Bay, but decided to seek out South Thorne Bay first,
as our Forestry student had mentioned this area as one we might like. We took the road towards Kasaan (pronounced
kuh-sằnn), and turned off on a side road to South Thorne Bay, and were
pleasantly surprised in terms of nicer places, less junk, and pretty
surroundings. We talked to an older
couple there—he had lived there over 30 years—and we were impressed with their
life there. He did mention the
disappointments with the influx of population, and we could certainly
understand that.
We had not heard anything about Kasaan, but decided to take
a look at it since we were on this road anyway.
Wow—WHAT a spot! After all that
we had experienced so far, this was like some kind of make-believe Utopia. A small community placed around a gorgeous
bay with no junk to speak of—whew! We
immediately began filming and even toying with various vacation and/or business
venture ideas. The "Kafe" and
surrounding residences were for sale and it was something we were considering,
along with a quaint residence at the end of the cove. The "For Sale" sign on this
residence had a phone number on it, but also invited "or talk to
owner". Chris decided to knock on
the guy's door and we were thus introduced to Skip Eskavon, a retired
fisherman, his wife Linda, and an absolutely adorable Native American boy of
about 8 named Julio who obviously visited their house frequently and was
fishing "buds" with Skip.
We immediately liked these folks, and especially appreciated
the frankness with which Skip shared things with us. We were definitely impressed with their warm
welcoming and hospitality, even though we were unexpected/uninvited guests…and
Julio was even, for a time at least, gleefully sacrificing some of his fishing
time with Skip—they were just getting ready to head out when we arrived—and
pointing out things as we walked around the property, reminding us a lot of our
B&B Alecia back in Craig.
Through Skip we learned of 3 red flags to discourage investments
there: (1) poor drinking water—"the kind that boiling can't cure";
(2) miners moving in—"the tribe sold land surrounding us here to miners
and they've been helicoptering in already"; and (3) the "hurricane
alley" affect—"Yeah, we get 100 mph winds sometimes here." We had heard Craig talk about the winds
there—the locals actually call Craig "Little Chicago"—but Chris
pointed out later to me that the winds THERE actually come from THIS region. Yikes.
Since he is trying to sell the place eventually, Chris thought maybe
Skip might want to hone up on his selling skills, or leave it in the hands of
realtors from now on, but we sure appreciated knowing this stuff.
We were educated with all kinds of various island building
requirements and fortifications that Skip shared and were meanwhile continuously
charmed by Julio. At one point, Chris
asked about the underneath of the house and any potential problems there, to
which Skip immediately opened up the crawl-space hatch so he could take a look. Julio right away asked exuberantly, "Do
you want me to crawl under there for ya?!!"
From Kasaan, we drove back to Thorne Bay
It was time to head back, and we decided to treat ourselves
to dinner out at the only restaurant we knew of on the island: Ruth Anne's Restaurant in Craig. I had a halibut hankering and we figured we
could fare well there.
The halibut was great but the restaurant's right next to the
bar and there was a lot of loud music and profanities as well as the obligatory
smoke drifting in as we dined. Okay, so
it's not quite the Ritz! We also were
blessed with a rather spunky/spacey waitress who seemed more intent on keeping
us there with her lack of response in order to give her a break. I forgot to mention that the annual marathon
from Hollis to Craig took place that weekend, and there was evidently quite an
upswing in the amount of people she had to serve. It took us a long time to get served and get
the check. Oh well…how else to spend our
time, really? Chris was able to pass a
few minutes sharing our grouse citing of the day before after he spotted our
Forestry student with her boyfriend on the dock. I asked him how enthused she was that we had seen
one and he shrugged, "Well, ya know…she's with her boyfriend." Guess education's just not everything, is it?
We were up and "outta here" by 6:30 to "beat the
marathon", only to find out while gassing up that the actual event had
taken place yesterday—we already missed it!
We got invited once again to the Mud Bogg Races in Naukati, smiled and
said, "Okay—thanks!" and drove off in the opposite direction.
Today's exploration was off of a road heading towards
Hydaburg, a town we were steered away from as it's a native town not friendly
towards non-natives. You'll be happy to
know that we actually took the advice this time.
We got off onto the 12 Mile Arm Road and the bay there is a
beautiful spot! Not sure what the
fishing is like as it's pretty far in from the ocean, but we did see sea lions
there, so we know there must be something to entice them!
Venturing on up into Pass Lake
We stopped at other places along the way, to "bear
hunt" once again as we hiked roads.
No bears, but did come upon deer and lots of pretty scenery.
On our way back, we decided to once again check out Hollis
and look for any secret pretty spots that might be there. Conclusion:
they are still a secret! There
were just more disappointments of the POW usual—lots of junky in between some
pretty.
I had thought we could venture over to the Craig Point
Park
Oh no. Obviously, it
was abandoned there. Being from out of
town, we were at a loss as to what to do.
I got out and the kitty rushed towards me. Trying not to get attached, I got out and
watched with anxiety as he jumped up underneath the truck. I got him out from under there, and then he
purred and shivered in my arms. I looked
up at Chris and we both had that sad look in our eyes…whatever do we DO? Okay, first things first: the kitty is bony and obviously hungry. We'll feed him and then decide. A carload was leaving the park and we flagged
them down—"Do you know where we take this abandoned kitty?" Luckily, she had a suggestion—to the police
station, or "cop shop" as she called it, and gave us directions to there. Great. Now we've got a plan at least. We were both showered with much cuddling and
purring by "Copter Kitty", our nick-name for him.
Chris drove to the Craig grocery store and bought little packs
of dried cat food and we were able to feed him—not hard to do as he was
ravenous—and then headed over to the "cop shop". I was expecting a lukewarm reception and was not
looking forward to this, but we figured it was better than leaving him out in
the cold. As we drove up to the station,
there was a pizza delivery person just getting back into his car to drive up,
so we figured no one could be too busy in there at least.
Chris said his goodbye to Copter and I headed into the
station armed with him and the packets of food.
Through the door I go, and 2 women in uniforms eating pizza look up at
me. "Can we help you?" one of
them said, eyeing Copter. I explained
that we were out of town, and found this kitty, and…before I could get a
complete sentence finished, one of them reached out for Copter and much cooing
and "oohs" and "aahs" followed. I could hear Copter purring from where I
stood as he was embraced by the two, one saying, "Boy, you brought this
guy to the wrong people—we LOVE cats!" to which I answered that this made
it the right place. Copter was very
interested in their pizza, their love, and their warm station. I think he said, "Thanks," as I
left him behind.
When I got back to the rig, I relayed the event to Chris and
we both got all sappy and moist-eyed about it.
What ELSE could possibly happen that we were NOT expecting on this
trip??
Don't ask…don't ask…
First, I should explain the "Blue Tarp Abode" on
the right just as you're entering into Craig proper. Words cannot do it justice, so it's a good
thing we got this residence on film, but suffice it to say that it looks like
something Popeye would have pieced together on a bad hangover day. No angles meet, a blue tarp seems to serve as
a roof, and there seems to be obvious drug-dealing activities there. His front yard is a cove, his back yard is a
wide assortment of piled junk. At first
we thought it was a thing of the past, but then saw smoke curling out of the
stack above it—oh my!! We filmed it so
much that we evidently flushed a fellow out of there with his brown-paper
bottle bag. Probably thought we were the
police or something, we figured.
Okay, so on our way out of Craig, we approach the Blue Tarp
thinking maybe another filming episode when we saw 2 guys in camouflage with
their binoculars trained somewhere behind Blue Tarp cove. I got a brief flash of what they were looking
at—a BEAR! Chris stopped/parked and we
finally got a bear on film. A
"townie"…Chris says that doesn’t count. Oh well…it was still exciting and something
ELSE unexpected! What a cap on the day!
Finished movies over breakfast and lolled around a little
this morning. No huge hurry, as our only
goal today was to see how far we could get on the road between Thorne Bay
Sandy Beach was a first stop—a place we had stopped at
before and been impressed with. We
parked next to the only other vehicle, a beat-up POW usual-looking van. Chris predicted that it probably made some
noise. Then a loud-screaming woman
appeared on the scene coming back from the beach. She was constantly
"good-boy/bad-boy"ing a dog as she tried to get it and the kids back
into their vehicle. Sure enough, the
noise it emitted did not disappoint—a huge boiling/gurgling and
sputtering/coughing as she tried to start up her rig. She ended up in trouble, unable to start, and
another POW rig pulled up to help her out with more shouting and car-starting
sounds. We decided it wasn't the right
time for us to visit Sandy Beach and took our leave…not sure we were even
noticed by the crew.
Making our way up the road, we stopped at Little Ratz Bay
and then Big Ratz Bay/Harbor and were pleased to see that these places were
still nice—still some boating/canoeing possibilities there! Of course, we had the place to ourselves that
day and weren't sure that would be the case on a true summer day up there…
We broke the crest—got through the snow—and were able to be
the "town criers" for some folks coming the other way from Coffman
Cove that the pass was actually passable.
The Coffman Cove liquor store owner was ecstatic over the news and she
and the POW Chamber of Commerce woman cursed themselves for not bringing their
wallets so they could shop on "the other side".
We went ahead and drove to Coffman, then back to Craig. We gave Port St. Nicholas road another chance
with our "new eyes" we had developed since day 2, but alas, nothing
screamed at us once again.
And thus ended our tour of POW… Tomorrow would prove to be the actions of Day
1 only in reverse, this time only taking 16 hours with shorter lay-over time
between the main ferry and airport ferry in Ketchikan.
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